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Designed for the tourist seeking a fresh, authentic, Roman experience, this intimate, stimulating guide explores Romes splendid modern architecture, its bustling close-in neighborhoods, and its rivers, magnificent fountains, and aqueducts. Itineraries take the reader to Fascist and occupied Rome of World War II, the nearby Alban Hills, and the Eternal Citys lesser-known green spaces. Innovative chapters feature cultural and artistic Rome, including art galleries, jazz clubs, film locations, and rooftop bars--even places that offer a sumptuous (and free) "vernissage" of wine and hors...