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In this thrilling and candid memoir, world record-holding and controversial Big Wave surfer Garrett McNamara chronicles his emotional quest to ride the most formidable waves on earth.

Garrett McNamara--affectionately known as GMac--set the world record for the sport, surfing a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazare, Portugal in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer,...

So you got the guy on the big white horse, and the beautiful little mermaids, and the picket fence, and your life isn't . . . perfect in every imaginable way?

You're not alone. In 1997, Gabrielle Reece married the man of her dreams--professional surfer Laird...