Kategoria BISAC: Sports & Recreation >> Water Sports - Surfing

Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars
Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature

Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave--that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder--in a single year,...

In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule'a.

Eddie Would Go is the compelling story of Eddie...

A bitchin' love letter to sand and sea, and a spirited inside account of life with the "first family" of American surfing

In 1956, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz stepped away from a successful medical practice and began a lifelong surfing odyssey that grew to include his wife Juliette, and their nine children. Together, the Paskowitz clan lived a vagabonding bohemian existence, eschewing material possessions in favor of intangible riches like health and good cheer . . . all the while careening along the world's coastlines in search of the perfect wave.

In Scratching the Horizon,...

France is the epicenter of the European surf experience and The Stormrider Guide: France takes you on an amazing tour of the entire coastline. From Calais to Corsica the best reefs,...

The Longboard Travel Guide is the first surf guidebook written specifically for longboarders. Loaded with mouth-watering lineup photos, the book describes 100 of the best waves in the world for loggers and offers insider tips on how to ride them. From the Maldives to Australia's Gold Coast, from Costa Rica to Fiji, from Samoa to Sri Lanka, all the classic destinations are here. A smorgasbord of less-well known areas are also included for adventurous surfers who thirst for uncrowded waves. This book covers every aspect of surf travel for longboarders: where to go, where to stay, what...

Join Velzy and Fin on their wild and free adventure going surfing in tropical paradise! When Velzy has a wipe out, Fin teaches him the importance of having a positive mindset in both surfing and in life.

Surfing has been a significant sport and cultural practice in Hawai'i for more than 1,500 years. In the last century, facing increased marginalization on land, many Native Hawaiians have found refuge, autonomy, and identity in the waves. In Waves of Resistance Isaiah Walker argues that throughout the twentieth century Hawaiian surfers have successfully resisted colonial encroachment in the po'ina nalu (surf zone). The struggle against foreign domination of the waves goes back to the early 1900s, shortly after the overthrow of the Hawaiian kingdom, when proponents of this political seizure...

Over the last forty years, surfing has emerged from its Pacific islands origins to become a global industry. Since its beginnings more than a thousand years ago, surfing's icon has been the surfboard--its essential instrument, the point of physical connection between human and nature, body and wave. To a surfer, a board is more than a piece of equipment; it is a symbol, a physical emblem of cultural, social, and emotional meanings. Based on research in three important surfing locations--Hawai'i, southern California, and southeastern Australia--this is the first book to trace the surfboard...