Two musican/kayakers paddle around Sun and Moon islands of Lake Titicaca in search of caves that, according to local folklore, are visited at night by water spirits (sirenas) who come to play instruments left by local musicians. Traveling with an Andean ten-stringed charango, the author writes of their explorations and attempts to uncover the truth behind the sirena belief, and of their encounters personal, musical and environmental in this immense blue lake 12, OOO feet high in the Andean mountains. Along the way the kayakers meet concerned Bolivians (are they going to drown in those tiny...