Kip Meyerhoff learned how to cook from his father, a New York City gangster who got his formal training in culinary arts while doing a stretch in prison.
His dad taught him the axioms of cooking: a little sugar can go a long way; bitterness can spoil your appetite for life; tarts are not always a just dessert; heat can reduce heat; and hot is not always hot.
Kip wanted to learn more, so his father turned him over to a succession of hotel chefs. Soon he was searing and broiling, baking and boiling, sauteing and flambeing, roasting and toasting.
He looks back at his...
Kip Meyerhoff learned how to cook from his father, a New York City gangster who got his formal training in culinary arts while doing a stretch in p...