"Is this your first visit to Zambia?" shouts the driver above the din of protesting gears as he rams his way mercilessly up through them and into top gear causing the entire truck to vibrate. "No, we have been here many times," I yell back. "Many times?" he repeats incredulously. "Then what are you doing travelling on this road in that vehicle?" He shakes his head in disbelief. ***** "So you have been in Zambia already?" asks the deputy head. "Many times," we assure him. "Then you know our ways?" he asks. "For sure this couple knows us and our ways " laugh the three young men. "Especially the...