A rich, lively book about the upheaval in French gastronomy, set against the backdrop of France's diminished fortunes as a nation.
France is in a rut, and so is French cuisine. Twenty-five years ago it was hard to have a bad meal there; today it's difficult to find a good one. An unmistakable whiff of decline emanates from its kitchens, and many believe that London, Spain, and New York are more exciting places to eat. Parisian bistros and brasseries are disappearing at an alarming rate; large segments of France's wine industry are in crisis; many artisanal products are threatened with...