Although both innovative and engaging, Book XIII of Martial's epigrams, the Xenia, has generally been neglected. As its name suggests, it is concerned with presents, in particular those given at the Saturnalia by hosts to their dinner guests. Like the Apophoreta, which Martial published next, it comprises independent poetic couplets cast as descriptive gift-tags.

Far from being mere verse catalogues, however, these books are highly sophisticated literary compositions. Whereas the Apophoreta encompass many different items, the Xenia are devoted to food and...