"San Juan: Memoir of a City" conducts readers through Puerto Rico's capital, guided by one of its most graceful and reflective writers, Edgardo Rodrí guez Juliá . No mere sightseeing tour, this is culture through immersion, a circuit of San Juan's historical and intellectual vistas as well as its architecture.           
        In the allusive cityscape he recreates, Rodrí guez Juliá invokes the ghosts of his childhood, of San Juan's elder literati, and of characters from his own...