Athens is a well-known destination for those interested in discovering the birthplace of Western civilization. Its ancient monuments have been the model for innumerable buildings and works of art all over the Western world. However, the reality of modern Athens is much more complicated: the ancient monuments and neo-classical buildings are interlaced with winding streets, Byzantine churches, mosques, and an oriental bazaar. These juxtapositions require explanation.

This book explores the development of the city of Athens after the beginning of Greek independence in 1830. It...