Fashion, Society, and the First World War: International Perspectives

ISBN-13: 9781350231177 / Angielski / Miękka / 2022 / 288 str.

Maude Bass-Krueger; Hayley Edwards-Dujardin; Sophie Kurkdjian

Spis treści

Lists of Figures List of Contributors Acknowledgements, Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian Notes on Translation Timeline Introduction, Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian I. The Reconfiguration of the International Couture Industry 1: Wartime Marketing of Parisian Haute Couture in the United States, 1914-1917 Mary Lynn Stewart 2: Boué Sœurs, “Compelled by the War” Waleria Dorogova 3: “Gladdening the hearts of warriors:” the relationship between Lucile’s romantic fashions and morale in World War I Georgina Ripley 4: Die Kriegskrinoline - A Feminine Fashion Between Past and Future Birgit Haase 5: Fashion in Belgium during the Great War and the Case of Norine Nele Bernheim II. The Materiality of Wartime Fashion and Textile Industries 6: Dressed to Quill: The Origin and Significance of the Feathered Showgirl in World War I Paris Emily Brayshaw 7: Between Fashion and Folk: Dress Practices in Alsace during World War I Sara Hume 8: The Lace Industry in Belgium and France During the War Marguerite Coppens 9: Industrial and Handmade Clothing Production in the Netherlands, a Neutral Country during First World War Marta Kargól 10: Wartime Fabrics in the Historical Archives of Como Weavers and in the Collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti Margherita Rosina III. Problematic Uniforms: Male and Female Experiences and Second-Hand Trade Networks 11: “Breeched, Booted, and Cropped:” a dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain’s Women’s Land Army, 1917-1919 Amy de la Haye 12: The French Home Front in 1914-1918: An Investigation of Female Workwear Jérémie Brucker 13: Rushing to Suit Up: French Aviation’s Adjustment to Wartime Uniforms, 1914-1916 Guillaume de Syon 14: The Spoils of War: Use and Transformations of Second-Hand Uniforms during the First World War in France Manuel Charpy IV. Fashion in Print: Questions of National Fashion and Gender 15: The Gentleman Turned “Enemy:” Men’s Fashion in the Hungarian Press, 1914-1918 Zsolt Mészáros 16: The Politics of Fashion: German Fashion (Writings) in Times of War Burcu Dogramaci 17: The Italian Fashion Magazine Margherita: the War, Women, and the Call for a “Moda Italiana,” 1914-1918 Enrica Morini 18: Le Flambeau’s Fashion Discourse during the First World War: Towards a Retrograde Femininity? Nigel Lezama 19: Is Beauty Useless? Fashion, Gender, and British Wartime Society in Punch Magazine, 1915 Andréa Kollnitz Index