The Fashion Reader

ISBN-13: 9781350128453 / Angielski

Linda Welters (University of Rhode Islan;Abby Lillethun (Montclair State Universi

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This new edition of a bestselling textbook is designed for students, scholars, and anyone interested in contemporary fashion. The book brings together the key writings on the subject, covering the history, culture, and business of fashion. The essays are drawn from a wide range of sources - books, professional and academic journals, magazines, interviews, and exhibition catalogues. Each section is specially introduced and concludes with guides to further reading. The new edition has been entirely revised and expanded: there are new sections on psychology, ethnicity, design and manufacture, marketing and merchandising, and sustainability; several new essays have been specially written for the reader; the range of illustrations has been increased. In its second edition, The Fashion Reader is the ideal introductory text for all students of fashion

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List of Figures List of Tables and Charts Acknowledgments Notes on Contributors General Introduction - Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun Part I: A Brief History of Fashion Introduction - Linda Welters 1. From Prehistory through Byzantium - Abby Lillethun 2. Europe to 1700 - Linda Welters 3. From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700-1790 - Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell 4. From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790-1860 - Susan North 5. The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860-1910 - Cynthia Cooper 6. The Modern Era: 1910-1960 - Tiffany Webber 7. The Postmodern Age: 1960-2010 - José Blanco F. Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part I Part II: Fashion Theory Introduction - Abby Lillethun 8. Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture - Thorstein Veblen 9. The Power of Fashion - Kurt Lang and Gladys Engel Lang 10. Written Clothing - Roland Barthes 11. The Fashion System - Grant McCracken 12. The Dressed Body - Joanne Entwistle 13. Re-Orienting Fashion Theory - Sandra Niessen 14. Fashion at the Edge - Caroline Evans Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part II Part III: Psychology of Fashion Introduction - Abby Lillethun 15. The Fundamental Motives - J. C. Flugel 16. To the Fashion Industry as Represented by the British Fashion Council - Janet Treasure et al. 17. Hearts and Masks - David Muggleton 18. Shopping Addiction: Is Shopping Costing More Than Money? - Marilyn Clark and Kirsten Salerno Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part III Part IV: Fashion and Identity Introduction - Abby Lillethun 19. Is it a Girl or a Boy? Gender Identity and Children's Clothing - Colleen R. Callahan and Jo B. Paoletti 20. Sentimental Culture and the Problem of Fashion - Karen Halttunen 21. Men and Women: Dressing the Part - Jo B. Paoletti and Claudia Brush Kidwell 22. The Zoot Suit and Style Warfare - Stuart Cosgrove 23. Invisible Men? - Shaun Cole 24. Subculture: The Unnatural Break - Dick Hebdige Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IV Part V: Fashion: Space and Place Introduction - Linda Welters 25. World Cities of Fashion - David Gilbert 26. Popularizing Fashion in Melbourne, Australia - Sally Weller 27. Fashion Blogs - Sarah Moore 28. Globalization Reconsidered: The Historical Geography of Modern Western Male Attire - Wilbur Zelinsky Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part V Part VI: Ethnicity, Culture and Dress Introduction - Abby Lillethun 29. The Highlander Myth - Hugh Trevor-Roper 30. The Veil in Their Minds and on Our Heads: Veiling Practices and Muslim Women - Homa Hoodfar 31. Guayaberismo and the Essence of Cool - Marilyn Miller 32. Youth Cosmopolitanism: Clothing, the City and Globalization in Dakar, Senegal - Suzanne Scheld Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VI Part VII: Politics of Fashion Introduction - Abby Lillethun 33. Failed Censures: Ecclesiastical Regulation of Women's Clothing in Late Medieval Italy - Thomas M. Izbicki 34. The Calico Campaign: Prohibition of East Indian Cottons - Beverly Lemire 35. Trade Policies - Arthur C. Mead 36. Finding the Moral Fiber: Why Reform is Urgently Needed for a Fair Cotton Trade - Oxfam Briefing Paper 37. Sweatshop: A First Edition - Robert J. S. Ross 38. Not Only Nike's Doing It: "Sweating" and the Contemporary Labor Market - Richard McIntyre and Yngve Ramstad 39. Feminism and Fashion - Elizabeth Wilson Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VII Part VIII: Fashion and the Body Introduction - Abby Lillethun 40. Corsets in Vogue - Valerie Steele 41. Nap Time: Historicizing the Afro - Robin D. G. Kelley 42. "Material Girl": Madonna as Postmodern Heroine - Susan Bordo 43. The Slimming of Yvonne Blue - Joan Jacobs Brumberg 44. Fashioning the Body Today - Susan J. Vincent Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIII Part IX: Fashion and Art Introduction - Linda Welters 45. Art and Fashion - Michael Boodro 46. Fashion Rendering - Richard Martin 47. On the Marked Change in Fashion Photography - Olivier Zahm 48. Viktor & Rolf - Andrew Bolton 49. Shed, Cathedral or Museum? - Chantal Béret Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IX Part X: Fashion, Media and Communication Introduction - Linda Welters 50. Fashion on the Page - Christopher Breward 51. Supermodels and Super Bodies - Jennifer Craik 52. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis - Kathleen Craughwell-Varda 53. Hot Couture: Brigitte Bardot's Fashion Revolution - Ginette Vincendeau 54. Sex and the City in the British Fashion Press - Anna König 55. Hip Hop - Tricia Rose 56. Selling Culture: Bloomingdale's, Diana Vreeland, and the New Aristocracy of Taste in Reagan's America - Debora Silverman Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part X Part XI: From Haute Couture to the Street Introduction - Linda Welters 57. When Worth Was King - Anne Hollander 58. The Dressmaking World - Thérèse Bonney and Louise Bonney 59. Torontonian Taste in Couture - Alexandra Palmer 60. Trickle Down, Bubble Up - Ted Polhemus 61. Secondhand Dresses and the Role of the Ragmarket - Angela McRobbie 62. Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood - Sonnet Stanfill 63. Japanese Street Fashion: The Urge To Be Seen and To Be Heard - Yuniya Kawamura Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XI Part XII: Design and Manufacture Introduction - Linda Welters 64. Inside Design-A Look at the Method Behind the Madness - Katy Chapman 65. Fashion Sorceress - Linda Tischler 66. The Diary of a Dress: Alexander McQueen Shares the Saga of How One of His Inspirations-A Peter Arnold Orchid Photograph-Evolved from Simple Sketch to Production Nightmare to a Stunning Gown Fit for Supermodel Naomi Campbell - Lisa Armstrong 67. Born in the USA: The Growing Premium-Denim Market Goes Global - Julia Fein Azoulay 68. It's in the Bag - Dana Thomas Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XII Part XIII: Marketing and Merchandising Introduction - Linda Welters 69. Business Sense: It Takes a Lot More than Individual Flair to Stay at the Top - John Andrews 70. Return to Clubland - Mark Tungate 71. New Luxury - Dana Thomas 72. American Apparel - Rob Walker 73. Dorothy Shaver: Promoter of "The American Look" - Tiffany Webber-Hanchett Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIII Part XIV: The Fashion Business and Global Economics Introduction - Abby Lillethun 74. What Happened to Fashion? - Teri Agins 75. The Islamic Factor - Nicholas Coleridge 76. Zara: The Business Model for Fast Fashion - Teresa M. McCarthy 77. Four Models of Fashion Relationships - Simona Segre Reinach 78. Fashion in India - Vandana Bhandari 79. Made in China - Arthur C. Mead 80. "Two for a Penny" - Pietra Rivoli Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIV Part XV: Sustainability and Fashion Introduction - Linda Welters 81. Fiber Sustainability: Green is Not Black + White - Martin Bide 82. Weaving a New Future - Julian M. Allwood, Søren Ellebæk Laursen, Cecilia Malvido De Rodriguez and Nancy M. Bocken 83. Digital and Democratic - Sarah Scaturro Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XV Part XVI: Future of Fashion Introduction - Linda Welters 84. The Evolution of the Chicago Fashion Initiative - Melissa Gamble 85. Born to Buy - Juliet B. Schor 86. Aging and Demographics: Implications for the Fashion Industry - Claire Lacoste-Kapstein 87. Luxury Fashion Branding - Uche Okonkwo 88. Wearable Technology - Lucy E. Dunne Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XVI Bibliography Index