Stoked Again: My Very Own Surf Story

ISBN-13: 9781439253656 / Angielski / Miękka / 2009 / 134 str.

George Pendleton

Opis

The autobiography of an uncelebrated Southern California surfer from the sixties, with accounts of his many surfing safaris to the Ranch, Baja, Old Mexico, Hawaii and Europe. The author describes his lifelong love of the ocean, the numerous characters and adventures he encountered along the way, and how he got back his "stoke" after a hiatus of almost ten years away from surfing. He shares his observations of what it has meant to be a surfer for over four decades. As a teenager when surfing exploded after Gidget in the sixties, seeing the transition of surfing into the mainstream of SoCal culture and lifestyle, and finally, being an active "old man" surfer today.