Amazing Surfing Stories: Tales of Incredible Waves and Remarkable Riders

ISBN-13: 9781119942542 / Angielski / Twarda / 2012 / 228 str.

Alex Wade

Opis

This eclectic mix of surfing stories has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. Be thrilled by legendary surfers, as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike, and many are illustrated with color photographs.

Spis treści

Preface xi
Part One Going to Extremes
Child's Play? Definitely Not 3
Hold Down 7
Surviving the Atom Blaster 12
Oh My God (Take 1) 18
Size Matters 23
Part Two Tragic Tales
In Memory of Andy Irons 31
Veitch: RIP 36
QED 40
The Peterson Problem 44
Part Three When the Big Stuff Bites
A Bite out of Burle 51
People in Car Crashes Don't Stop Driving 55
Bare Hands and Bombs 59
The White Zone 66
Part Four Gonzo Interlude
Being Dave Rastovich 75
A Thrust Too Far 87
Do You Know Russell Winter? 92
Four Surfers and a Painting 98
Part Five Contests and Communities
Higher than a High Five 105
Black Clouds and Bellyboards 109
Bad Boy Bobby and the New York Quiksilver Pro 114
The Big M 120
Lord Thurso, Cool in Caithness 123
A Debt at Dungeons 126
After Rio Breaks 133
Part Six Worldwide Waves
Seven Ghosts 139
Hokkaido - The Rights of Passage 145
1,300 Miles for a Wave 150
Ed's Left, aka the Spot with No Name 153
Loco on Lobos 157
The Lady in the Emerald Green Bathing Dress 162
Purring thanks to 'Da Cat' 168
Part Seven Obsession
Peg Leg Rik 175
Soldiers Get Stoked 179
The Daily Wavester 182
The Amazing Mr Slater 186
Part Eight Inspiration
Stoked 193
Colonel 'Mad Jack' Churchill 195
OMG (Take 2) 199
Dr Sarah and the Meaning of Surfing 204
Acknowledgements 208