Surfing is poetry. It is pure experience of the moment. Poetry attempts to capture that experience. "A pioneering anthology of experiential verse and essays about riding waves first published in 1993 before surf books were in vogue. The second edition is physically enhanced and enriched, still all good stuff, worth the ring on your butt it will cause if you keep it in the bathroom."
--Steve Pezman, Publisher of The Surfer's Journal "From the solitude of being alone on the water at daybreak, to the exhilaration of confronting nature with nothing but a board, the entire surfing experience...